Shoe sewing machine



Aug. 17, 1943. QUINN 2,3u' 7,l25

172 1 Z y. Z- 30 24 54 Z 20 J 35 0 0 3 F7 9. 3 m n L a 36 Inventor I 30/VIE/Utes;

184 $641M, v 172/ r Aug. 17, 1943.

Filed March 12, 1941 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 196 I I @Ezaa a 180 Fig.5

20 Inventor Aug. 17, 19430 E. QUINN 2,327,

SHOE SEWING MACHINE Filed March 12, 1941 3 Sheets-Sheet 3 Fig 6 114 11,5

Witness fl/m u 7 am Patented Aug. 17, 1943 UNiTED STATES PATENT OFFICE I7 2,327,125 I V 1 v .SHOE SEWING MACHINE Edward Quinn, Maiden, Massgassignor to United Shoe Machinery Corporation, Flemington, N. 3.,

a corporation of New Jersey Application March 12, 1941, Serial No.382,94?!

1*} Claims.

The present invention relates to shoe sewing machines; and is hereindisclosed as embodied in an inseam sewing machine of thegeneral typehaving a curved hook needle and cooperating instrumentalities forforming a chainstitch, and adapted for sewing together the insole, upperand welt of a welt shoe. The illustrated machine is provided also withmeans for making a series of slashingcuts passing through the sewing ribcomprised between the oppositely disposed stretches of thread formingthe stitches of the seam.

It is a principal object of the invention to provide in a machine ofthisgeneral description having a curved hook needle, 'a looper and a threadfinger movable to supply slack thread to the needle, 9. novel means forguiding and positioning the thread which will cooperate with the needle,looper and thread finger in such a manner-as will insure'the properfunctioning of the stitch forming mechanism during operation upon allclasses of work, and will'markedly improve the quality of the stitchingproduced with respect to uniformity, tightness and proper locationalong" the margin of the shoe.

It is a further object of the invention to provide an inseam sewingmachine of the general type described, and having mechanism for slashingthe sewing'rib, of which the stitch forming mechanism is particularlyconstructed and arranged to support and to control the thread during theforming of successivestitches in such a manner as to preclude anypossibility that the thread may become caught inthe slashed portions ofthe sewing rib.

Gther objects of the invention are to improve the construction andarrangement of certain oper ting instrumentalities of an inseam sewing"tha 'ine of this description, with particular 'reference toimprovements in the mechanism for slashing the sewing rib. a

With these 'and other objects in view as'may hereinafter appear, aprincipal feature of the invention consists in the provision in amachine of the general type described having a'curved hook needle, alooper and a thread finger'nibvable to supply slack thread to theneedle; of a stationary thread fingerhavin'g a thread engaging surfaceextending substantially parallel to the sewing rib and substantially:below'theedge thereof, and crossing the plane of movement of the needlesufficiently above the path taken by the needle to avoid interference ofthe'parts. Theiseveral features of. the invention consist also in thedevices, combinations zand.. -arrange ment of parts hereinafterdescribed and claimed, which together with the advantages to be obtainedthereby will be readily understood by one skilled in the art from thefollowing description taken in connection with the accompanyingdrawings, in which Fig. l is a view in right side elevation illustrating.a portion of the sewing head of an inseam shoe sewing machine, only somuch of the machine having been disclosed as is; believed necessary toillustrate'the connection of the present invention therewith; Fig. 2 ian enlarged detail View in front elevation illustrating the relativepositions of the channel guide,.looper, needle and the movable andstationary thread'fingers at the limit of the loop drawing stroke of themovable thread finger; Fig. '3 is a plan View of the parts shown in Fig.2; Fig. i is a detail View in right side elevation partly in section,illustrating particularly the construction and arrangement of applicantsstationary thread finger; Fig. ,5 is a view in front elevation partly insection-of the parts shown in Fig. 4; Fig. 6 is a View in right sideelevation illustrating particularly an improved constructionandarrangement of the mechanism for operating the slashing knife and theassociated welt supporting member; Fig. 7 is an enlarged detail view ofthe welt slashing knife and welt supporting element shown in Fig. 6;Fig. 8 is a view in front elevation of the parts shown in Fig. '7; Fig;9 is a sectional plan view taken on the line 99 of Fig. 7; and Fig. 10is a sectional plan View taken on the line Iii-l9 of Fig. 7.

. The machine disclosed in the drawings as i1- lustrating in a preferredform the several features of the present invention, comprises a Weltsewing machine for attaching the welt to the insole and associatedupper, and is substantially identical in its construction and mode ofoperation. with themachine disclosed in the patent to Eppler'No.1,103,560. The shoe operating devices of the machine include a curvedhook needle 20, a needle guide 22, a looper 24, a take-up 25, anauxiliary take-up 2'8, and a thread finger 39 movable to supply slackthread to the needle, together with the work supporting-and guidingdevices including a backrest 32, a welt'guide 34, and a channel guide35. The present machine is also provided with a rib slashing knife 38and an anvil support 43 cooperating therewith adapted for" making" aseries of slashing cuts passing through the sewing rib and formingsegmental portions thereof which, are held together by the stitches ofthe seam. The rib slashing mecha- 'nismekcept as herein described issimilar tothat illustrated in applicants Patent No. 2,247,691, datedJuly 1, 1941, for machines for operating upon shoes.

In accordance with the present invention,applicant provides a stationarythread finger 42 which cooperates with the movable thread finger, ashereinafter more fully pointed out, to maintain a more accurate controlof the thread during the stitch forming'operation.

In accordance with the usual construction of these machines, the needle20 is mounted on a needle segment 44 mounted to turn on a stationarybearing and externally supported in a raceway 46 on the machine frame.chine, the awl has been omitted. The channel guide 35 is movable in theline of feed to feed the work, and to this end is mounted on a feedslide generally indicated at 68 which is reciprocated in the line offeed by means of a cam actuated feed lever 5B. The feed lever 59 issupported at its forward end to turn about a fixed pivot' and isconnected to 'move' the feed slide through connections including a block"52 adjustably supported in a slotted portion of the lever 56 andarranged to engage in a guideway 54 formed in the bottom side of thefeed slide .8. The needle segment 44' is actuatedfrom the reciprocableneedle'lever generally indicated at 6!) (Fig. 1) which is connected bymeans ofa curved link 62 to a pivot pin 64 on the needle segment M. Theneedle guide 22 is mounted on a pivot pin G5 to turn coaxially with theneedle segment 44, and is positively actuated through connections whichinclude a gear segment 56 rigidly secured to the pin 65, and a camactuated lever 68 supported 1 to turn on a pivot 19, and having formedat its forwardend a' gear segment I2 which meshes with'the segment 66.

to the work, and then forwardly to give up the In the illustrated ma- 7slack thread thus provided-to the needle during 7 its retracting stroke.The main take-up of the machine'is of usual construction consisting ofthe take-uplever 25 which is cam actuated and has mounted thereon athread truck 15. The auxiliary'take-up consists of the. auxiliarytake-up lever 28 having'a thread truck 18 mounted there; on. Theauxiliary take-up lever 28 is pressed upon by a spring-actuated plunger'80. This plunger is mounted in a vertical guideway in the frame of themachine, and its upper end is acted upon by a coil spring 82 seated in arecess in the machine frame. The auxiliary take-up .is thusspring-pressed, its upward movement being. resisted by thetension of thespring 82. The thread indicated at 34, after passing over the tensionwheel at the rear ofthe machine, passes over a guide truck 86, thenunder the truck I8 of the auxiliary take-up, and then over the truck 16of the main take-up. The arrangement of these trucks is such that duringthe rising movement of the main take-up, the auxiliary take-up is movedupward, and during the falling movement of the main take-up, theauxiliary take-up is allowed to fall and maintain'a tension on thethread determined by the stren th of the spring 82 and th'efrelativepositions of the three trucks. The main take-up falls during th threadpulling movement to the thread finger, during the looping movements ofthe looper, and during the retra'cting stroke of the needle. .Inaccordance with the usual practice to prevent the auxiliary takeup frornstealing thread 'from the thread finger 38 during its loop delivery orforward stroke, and while the needle is making the first part of itsretracting stroke, a stop 88 is provided to limit the forward movementof the auxiliary take-up, which stop is engaged by an adjustableabutment screw 90 mounted in the auxiliary take-up lever 28. The stop 83and abutment screw 98 are so arranged with relation to the falling.movement of the main take-up and the thread delivering stroke of thethread finger, that the falling movement of the auxiliary take-up muststop before the thread finger 3'3 begins its thread delivering stroke.

Inasmuch as the construction and arrangement of the thread handlinginstrumentalities thus far described, is substantially that illustratedin the Eppler patent above referred to, no further description orillustration thereof is believed necessary.

The rib slashing mechanism of the illustrated machine is generallysimilar to that illustrated and described in applicants patent abovereferred to, comprising the rib slashing knife 38 which is mounted on aknife segment 92 supported to turn on a pivot 96 which is formedintegrally with the needle guide 22 and is. eccentric with relation tothe needle guide pivot pin 65, and a cooperating anvil support 49 whichis arranged to engage withand force the sewing rib outwardly against thethrust of the knife 38 which enters from thechannel side of the work.The knife is fixed in the line of feed, and is spaced a predetermineddistance from that side of the needle remote from the completed stitchesof the seam, so that the slashing cut will always be spaceda'predetermined distanc from the point of operation upon the shoe atwhich the needle is operated to engage with and draw a newloop of threadthrough the work; The knife is located to form its slashing cut close tothe point at which the needle is operating through the work, so thatwhen the work is fed, the out will be transferred to'the other side ofthe needle a maximum pos sible distance for any given stitch lengthadjustment of the feed mechanism. The operation of the knife 38 is timedwith relation to the operationof the needle 29 and needle guide 22, sothat the downward movement of the knife takes place during theretracting movement of the needle guide 22 and while the eccentric pivotis moving rearwardly about the axis of rotation of the needle guide onthe pivot pin 65.

In-the illustrated construction, the knife 38 is mounted on the knifesegment 92 in such a manner as to permit of adjustment which willcompensate for wear and successive sharpenings of both the outer andanvil engaging knife edges. To this end the knife is slidablysupported-in a guideway 91 which is disposed at such an angle withrespect to the pivot 65 that adjustment of the knife outwardly in theguideway will serve to locate both knife edges simultaneously in theirproper operating positions. A clamping screw 98 threaded to the knifemember 38 and arranged to extend through a slot 99 in the knife segment92 serves to hold the knife 33 rigidly in adjusted position. I r

The anvil support 4!] is constructed and arranged to move in timedrelation to the knife, acting as the knife moves downwardly, first tomove downwardly and rearwardly, and then forwardly, forcing the sewingrib outwardly against the thrust of the knife. During retractingmovement of, the knife, the anvil support-40 is again moved rearwardlyand up tolits raised inoperative position as shown, for example, in Fig.1

port for the sewing rib atboth 'sides'ot the'knife 38, being formed forthis purpose with a rela- "tively long supporting surface. extendinglengthwise of the sewing'ribat each side of the point of application ofthe "knife. 'Asfcle'arly shown, for example, in Fig. 6of 'the'drawings,theanvil support'w moves downwardly betweenthe work and the welt guideand engages the sewing 'rib above the welt-guide 34, 'andalso above thewelt. A slot I00 is formed in thefaceof theianvil '49 to receivc'theknife38 to insure the proper operation of the knife to cutcompletelythrough the sewing rib.

As in applicants patentabove referred to, 'the rib slashing knife 38 andanvil support 40 are positively driven from the main camshaft of themachine by means of a cam lever l'ozsupported to turn on a pivot pin I94and arranged for imparting an oscillatory driving movement to a knifeactuating lever I56 supported on the shaft I 04. The lever I 06 is urgedin a clockwise direction by means of a tension spring I08toward alimiting position with respect to the cam lever "I02 in which 2. lugMoon the lever I05 is engaged against a lug II2 on the cam lever I02.During operation of the slashing knife, the actuating lever I05 ispositively connected to move with the lever I02 by means of a latchconnection comprising a latch I'I'4 carried on a pivot pin I I5 on thelever I96 for engagement with a pin IIS on the forward end'of the camlever I 62. A

small torsion spring II 8 coiled about the pivot pin I I5 for the latchI I4 tends normally to main- 'tain'the latch in looking position.

In order to disconnect the knife actuating lever I66 from activeoperation, mechanism is provided which comprises a control lever I29supported to 7 turn on a stationary pivot I22, and provided at its upperendwith'a'right angle slot I 24 to receive a cam roller I26 mountedonone end of the pivot pin for the latch I I4. For the rearward operativeposition'of the control lever I28, the cam roll I-26will ride in thevertical portion of the slot I24,

so that the knife actuating lever I95 is free to reciprocate with thecam lever I02 as shown, for example, in Fig. 6 of the drawings. Forwardmovement of the control lever "I22 as the cam lever I02 and knifeactuating ,Ie'ver I05 reach their limiting down position, will cause thecam "r011 I26 to ride rearwardl'y in the horizontal portion of the slotI24 to lock the knife actuating lever I65 in a locked inoperativeposition. The forward movement of the control lever I20 is arranged alsoto disconnect the latch H4 from the latch pin H6. The disengagement ofth latch H4 is effected by the engagement o f'a pin I28 on the controllever 29 with the downwardly extendin arm of the latch lever H4 whichacts to swing the latch lever rearwardly to the discon- In'e'ctedposition shown in Fig. 1, against the pressure of its spring I13; Theoperation of the control lever I20 is controlled through connectionswhiehmay be assumedto include a knee lever (not shown), and a verticallink I35 which is connected at its upper end to a rearwardly extendarmI32 of the control lever I20. h

The actuating lever IE5 is connected to impart oscillatory movements tothe knifeiSS through a link :34 connected at its lower'end'by means of apivot pin I35 to the knife segment, and at its upper end by Iheansof apin I38 to the actuating lever 166-. In order'to provide a convenientaderal support for the rod I42. The rod I42 is pivotallygonnected at itsupper end to one end of a lever I 48 SuppbrLtedjto turn on'a'iixed pivotI55. lhe 'lever'arin I48 isfconnected by means of a link I52 to theadjustable pivot pin I 38 on the kn fe actuating lever I06. Anextensiblecoupling I54 in the link I52 provides means of adjustmer t/ofthe limiting down position taken by the anvil s'uthtrtae. 7 h

Int-he i'r'nprovedforin of the rib slashing mechin here n illustrated, Vapplicant provides for "effecting an additional adjustment of vielimiting down position taken by the anvil agains the sewing rib to adaptthe mechaham for operation upon extreme types of work in which'heavys'tock is'ernployed, which necessiates a considerably higher location ofthe anvil support 4Q against the upper portionof the sewing rib. To thisend the lever I43 is provided with two slot I56 and 'lfidwhich areadapted alternatively to receive ajpivot pin rec mounted on the lowerend of the link I52. From an irfspe'ct'ionof Fig. 1, it will readily beseen that the location or the pivot pin for the 11111; I552 in'the slotI58 will cause the anvil ldtorbe located in a relatively higherpos'ition with relation to the sewing rib at the limit of it downmovement. The contour of the cam surface I 52 engaging the knuckle I44"is such as to provide a orrespohdmg compensation or" the forward andback position of the anvil support at the limit of its down stroke for,each position of adjustment; I

In the operation oi 1th inseam sewing machine of the geheiartype.described, provided with ng rib; difiiculty has e n eheohhteree with theoperation of the stitch formir'ig rnecha'ni sm to produce the uniformtight hht1aecurate1y 1ac1 stitch required for inseam sewing. 'This ultyis believed to be duein large part to the'novel conditions encountered,

in whicli thje sewing rib is weakened bythe slashing operation, andtherefore doe not provide the customary support tor the thread duringthe operation of the movable thread finger to supply slack thread to,the needle. It has been found also that there'is some tendency for thethread when bent rearwardly across the sewing rib by the movement of thethread finger, to

caught in th slashed portion of ,the rib, with resulting injury to thework. In accordance with a fea'ture oi the present invention, ap-li'cant provides stationary thread finger which-is located the stitchreceiving channel formed betweenthe sewing rib and the solaandcooperates with the several stitch forming 'ihstrume'ntaliti'e includingthe curvedthook needle, themovable thread finger and the looper to guidethe thread clear of the work, to accurately measure the amount of threadtaken-and subsequently given up by the movable thread aware thatsecondary thread fingers have previously been employed whichcooperateWiththe usual thread finger to more accurately measure. the amount ofslack thread supplied to the neerile, applicant in the present instanceprovides a new and more efdcient cooperation of the stitch forminginstrumentalities by virtue of the usev of a stationary thread fingerwhich is rigidly and permanently positioned within the stitch receivingchannel.

The stationary thread finger 42 provided in accordance with the presentinvention, comprises a curved element which projects into the stitchreceiving channel, and has the shank portion thereof located at'thatside of the sewing point toward the completed stitches of the seam. Thefinger 42 is provided with a thread engaging surface I79 which extendslengthwise of the channel and across the plane of movement of the curvedhook needle 20, and sufficiently above the same to avoid, interferencewith the needle.

In order that the thread finger 42 may be properly located for operationof the machine upon all classes of work which may be presented thereto,provision is made for adjustment of the thread finger 42 transversely,vertically and longitudinally with respect to the stitch receivingchannel at the sewing point. The thread engaging surface HI) take theform of a curve so shaped as to engage at its lowest point with thethread portion extending from the work and to support the thread in acontinued substantially straight line as it is drawn from the stitchreceiving perforation through the work by the thread drawing movement ofthe thread finger 30.

As best shown in Figs. and 5 of the drawings, the stationary threadfinger 42 is secured by means of screws I12 to a support I'I i which ismounted. for forward and back adjustment upon a slideway I16 formedinthe under side of a U-shaped bracket I18. A clamping screw I80 whichextends through a slot I82 in the support I I4, and is screw-threadedinto the bracket I18, serves to secure the support I'M to the bracket H8in the desired position of adjustment. The U-shaped bracket I18 ispivotally mounted on a bushing I84, and is rigidly clamped in thedesired position of angular adjustment with relation thereto, by meansof a clamping screw I86 which passes through the two arms of theU-shaped bracket and through an axial bore in the bushing I84. Thebushing I84 is carried in a bearing formed in a bracket I88 which issecured by means of screws 90 to the front side of the sewing head I92.In order to provide an additional adjustment of the stationary threadfinger 42 lengthwise of the stitch receiving channel, the bushing I84 isarranged for axial adjustment in its bearing, and is clamped rigidly inposition by means of a clamping pin I94 having one side thereofflattened at I96 for engagement with a corresponding fiat I88 in thebushing I534. The engaging flattened portions I95, I98 serve to key thebushing I84 against rotational movement in its bearing while permittingaxial adjustment thereof. A nut 28%] screw-threaded to the clamping pinI84 serves to clamp the bushing I84 rigidly in adjusted position.

The operation of nism including specifically applicants stationarythread finger 42 will be described as follows: After the needle hasreached the limit of its loop drawing stroke, and again startsdownwardly through the Work, the take-up 28' moves upthe stitch formingmechawardly to its limiting raised position to pull in the previouslyformed loop against the shank of the needle and to draw offadditional'thread from the supply. The auxiliary take-up 28 issimultaneously moved upwardly by the tension on the thread against thepressure of its spring. As the take-up starts its downward movement, themovable thread finger 30 starts to move rearwardly from the dot-and-dashposition shown in 3, to draw in a bight of slack thread, both legsthereof being bent over the thread engaging surface I '56 of thestationary thread finger 42. The take-up continues to fall as the threadfinger pulls in its bight of. thread, and continues this movement duringthe operation of the looper 24 to thread the needle, and during thesubsequent [retracting or loop drawing movement of the needle throughthe work. The thread finger 30 retains control of its bightof threadduring the operation of the looper 26, and thereafter up thread to theneedle during its retracting movement. It will be noted :that both legsof the bight of thread held by the thread finger 30, are at all timesengaged against and controlled Toy the thread engaging surface I'EO ofthe stationary thread finger 2, insuring an extremely accurate controlof the thread during his portion of the stitch forming operation. As theneedle approaches the limit of its loop drawing stroke, the threadfinger 38 will have been returned to the dot-and-dash position of 3, sothat the thread is released therefrom, and while still guided by thethread engaging surface iii) of the stationary thread finger =32, isdrawn down tightly into the base ofthc stitch receiving channel.

From the foregoing description, it will readily be seen thatv the threadengaging surface I'lil of applicants stationary thread finger 42operates at all times as aguide support for the thread extending from.the work during the operation of the movable thread finger 3i) andlooper 24, and also during the retracting stroke of the needle 29 tocause the thread while manipulated by these instrumentalities to bepositively supported away fromthe work, and finally, to be positionedaccurately in the base of the stitch receiving channel. In this manner,an extremely accurate handling of the thread by the stit a formingmechanism is insured which is entirely unaffected by such variables asthickness or strength of the work portions to be held together by thestitching. Any tendency of the thread to become caught in the slashingcuts formed in the sewing rib which might otherwise result from thebending of the thread over the sewing rib by the operation of the threadfinger 39 is entirely eliminated. It will be noted that the threadengaging surface i'iG of the stationary thread finger 42 supports thethread while being acted upon by the movable thread finger 36 and looper24 substantially in line with the needle perforations through which thethread is drawn, so that no lateral strains'may be exerted by theseelements upon the work. This feature is of advantage in that it permitsof the formation of tight stitching in work composed of weak or inferiormaterialswithout danger of tearing or otherwise injuring the same. Theoperation of the stitch forming mechanism is improved also in otherrespects, in that the support for the thread provided by the thread en,-

gaging surface Ill), permits the thread portion thethread finger 30during its rearwardistrokev needle and above the path taken by theneedle, tosupply slackthread for the needle. The more i and means forsupporting 'the'stationary'thread accurate control of thearnount'ofthreadj'tak'en finger rigidly'in position.

and subsequently given up by the movablej'thread 4. In an inseamchainstitch shoe sewingma finger 30 acting in cooperation-With the"sta 5chine, the "combination of a curved hookn'eedle, tionary thread'finger.42, has; been found'al'soto" a looper, a thread finger movable tosupply" slack result in an improvement inthe operation'of the thread tothe needle,a stationary thread finger auxiliary take-up cooperating"with the thread for guiding the" thread portions extending from finger30; and looper 24, ll'l, that"the auxiliary the work to the looper andneedlewh'ile engaged take up does not seatagainstits stopyxbutwpe'10,,by ,the'inovablethreadfinger, andhavingthe erates at 'all timesagainst its'springten'sion; thread engaging surface thereo'f'locatedsubstan thus providing amore "uniform oontrol of thetiallv:irr'lirjie"withthe stitchreceiVingperfora tensioning, strainsexerted upon the thread by tions through the work, meansfor'supporting'the the stitch formingimechanism; and-also making";stationary threadfingerrigidly in po'sition,"in'-' for a muoh more q tOpe at of the 1 80 1 6 1 "15 oludirig'adjusting'means arranged topermitad While applicants improved"construction a m tjustme'nt" ofsaid"position" of the 'threadffinger" arrangement of the stitch fojrmingmech'anisnr" freelyin" a' plane parallel to the planeof needle"including, particularly the: stationary thread) movement? fingern hasbeenfound"of-particularadvantage-- 5; In-anin'se'am' chainstitch'sh'oesewing maiin nconnection 'with an insteam sewing-machine 20 chine,"the combinatiorr'of a "curved hook needle having rnechanisrn forslashing the sewing-rib? arrange'd to enter the Workfrom theoutsideandit will he understood that' the-invention-is;not t emerge ithin af titchreceiving h nnel-f ed to a machine hav a rib-slas ing e h channelguidefa'looper, athread' finger movable i but s proved 'itself tobe equy d to "supplyslaolr'thread to the needle, a stationary v se as ppl ed'ti am w srthread 'fingerffor guidrng the threadportions" nes o q pped?tis also-to "beund engagedhy'the movable thread'finger"and ha' stoodthat the invention isnot limited" to" the ing thethieadengagingsurfacethereof located spe fic uct onand arr :Ofiparts Within the'stitchreceiving channel substantially pted f r sewing so-calledoutside'flhain,below the edg'eof' the sewingjrib'; and imeans for in Whi'ch't e needleenters w om=- supporting the stationary thread'finger Irigidlyf outside,but; may also :bewith advantageap- :f pes'itionr H plied to a machinadapt d f r s w sa o- 611 an inseam" chainstitch shoe sewing reversechain, in which 1:he-need1e'-entersthe chinefthe cornbinatiomofa curvedhook'needl'e work -fromthe inside, and emergesu arranged toenterthe workfrom the outside and pperq r' S p e W 1 to emerge within a stitchreceiving channel, a The'invention having be desclibedrwhatiwchannel-guideya loope'r, a thread'fingerrnovabie' claimed is: r f a tosupply slack'thr'e'ad'to the needle, a stationary 1.-In an inseamchainstitch'shoesewing ma-- thread. finger f "guiding t gr a ons fi,Combination a cuwfidhookfineedler" engaged bytheknovable threadfirig'er'and having a 1001 6 a thread finger movabletosupp1y-s1aok-40the thread "engaging surfaoe"'the"reof located thread t a inary-threadfinger"" withirrthestitch'rec'eiving'channelsubstantially foru d th thread p d g-f o belowth'e'edge of the'sewing'ribfand'means forthe W Q 9 d needle while engageid supportingahe" stationarythread fingerrigidly by the. mova l t a fi and having in positionnricluding"adjustingmeans arranged threadengaging surface thereof located'substane topermitadju'stment ofthestatidnary thread tiallyin line with; the stitchreceivi "p t fingerlongitudinallyofand in a plane tiansverse tionsthrough the work; and -means* forsup to the stitch-receiving;channel atthe sewing portingihe. stationary'thread finger "rigidly in point.-pgsifi'gn 7. In' an"inseamwhainstitoh shoe sewing 2. ;'In,aninsearn"chainstitch 'shoesewing'-mae chine;-thecornbination of a curvedhook'needu chine, the combination otacurved hook'needle; arranged toenter the work fromthe outside and a looper,, a thread-fingermovable'to' supply slack to emerge-within a stitch"receivingchannel; athread tojthe needle, a stationary-thread finger" channelguide, alooper, a thread finger'movahie' for guiding thethreadpportionsextending from" to supply slack 'thr'eadt'o'the needle, a stationary thework to the looper and needle while eng ged"'f55 thread finger forguiding the 0 thread por'ti'onsf by the; movable; thread finger, ofwhich "the"" engaged by the movable thread finger andhav-" threadengagingsurface is located substantially ing'the'threa-d engagingsurfacethereof located in line with. the stitchreceiving..perforationsfl Within the stitch receiving channel substanti11y throu h the W011; and extendsin a directiongenbelow the edge of thesewing rib, and means for erally parallel to'the searn at the' point ofoperasupporting the stationary thread finger rigidly tioniand across theplane of'movementof'the". in position comprisingta stationary support, aneedle, and meansforlsupportin'g thestationar'y "j bracket'niountedthereon for adjustment a thread finge; rigidly i p0 siti0n, 1planesubstantiaily parallel to the planefof needle" 3. :In an inseam.chainstitch shoe sewingmav movement, and' 'athread finger supportingmern chine, thepcombination of a curved hook needle, per vmountedon thebra'eketfor adjustment; in a loope athread fingermovable .to supplyslack; relation'to' the 'bracket'insaid' plane; I thread toxtheneedleja'stationary thread fingerj" S. Inan-inseam'chainstitch shoe ma forguiding the'thread portionsextending from chine, the combinationofacurvedhookheedIe" the work to the looper and needlelwhile engagedarranged to enterfthe'workfronithe outside-and oy the movablei'threadfinger, otyvlfighfthef-e to emerge within a stitcnreceivin'g"channel; athread engagingsurfacezis located substantiallyj'f chann'erguide; alooper,'a threadfirgigirjm gm in line with the stitch receivingperforations to supply slack'thre ad' to'the'n'eedle', a statiohary lthroughthe work,,. and, extends in a direction threadfinger'forjguitlingfithe thread'isortionygenerally parallel'to the seam at thepoint of engagedbythe movable'.thread'fingerand'hav operation across theplane of movement of the ing the thread engaging surface thereof locatedwithin the stitch receiving channel substantially below the-edge of thesewing rib, and means for supporting the stationary'thread fingerrigidgr in position including a bracket pivoted for swinging adjustmentin a plane substantially parallel to the plane of movement/of theneedle, and a thread finger supporting arm adjustably supported on thebracket.

9. In an inseam chainstitch shoe sewing machine, the combination of acurved hook needle arranged'to enter the work fromthe' outside'and toemerge within a stitch receiving channel, a channel'guide, a looper, athread finger movable to supply slack thread to the needle, a stationarythread finger for guiding the thread portions engaged by the movablethread finger and having the thread engaging surface thereof locatedwith in the stitch receiving channel substantially below the edge of thesewing rib, and mean for supporting the stationary thread finger rigidlyin position including a bracket pivoted for swinging adjustment in aplane substantially parallel to the plane of movement of the needle, anaxially adjustable pivotal support for said bracket, and a thread fingersupporting arm slidably mounted on the bracket for further adjustment ofthe stationary thread finger in said plane.

10. Ina chainstitch shoe sewing machine, the

thread finger movable to supply slack thread to the needle, and astationary thread finger located within the stitch receiving channel forguiding the thread acted upon by the movable'thread finger clear of theslashed sewing rib.

14. In an inseam shoe sewing machine having stitch forming devices andslashing mean acting in timed relation thereto for forming slashingcombination of a curved hook needle arranged to:

enter the Work from the outside and to emerge within a stitch receivingchannel, a looper, a thread finger-movable to supply slack thread to theneedle, and a stationary thread finger for guiding the thread portionsengaged by the movable thread finger, having the thread engaging surfacethereof located within the stitch receiving channel substantially belowthe edge of the sewi-ng' rib, and above the path taken by the needle,and crossing the planeof movement of the needle.

11. In an inseam chainstitch 'shoe sewing machine, the combination of acurved hook needle arranged to enter the work from the outside and toemerge within a stitch receiving channel, a channel guide arranged onthat side of the needle remote from the completed stitches of the seam,

a looper, a thread finger movable to supply slack thread to the needle,and a stationary thread finger cooperating therewith including a supporting shank located at that side of the needle opposite the channel guide,and having the thread engaging surface thereof located within the stitchreceiving channel substantially below the edge of the sewing rib andabove the path taken by the needle, and crossing the plane of movementof the needle.

12. In an inseam chainstitch shoe sewing machine, the combination .of acurved hook needle arranged to enter the work from the outside and toemerge within a stitch receiving channeLa channel guide, a slashingknife arranged for making transverse cuts through the sewin rib, alooper, a thread finger movable to supply slack t read to theneedle',and a stationary thread.

finger having the thread engaging surface thereof located within thestitch receiving channel substantially below the edge of the sewing rib.

13. In an inseam shoe sewing machine having stitch forming devices andslashing means acting in timed relation thereto for forming slashingcuts extending through the sewing rib, thecombination of a curved hookneedle arranged to enter the work from'the outside and toemerge Within astitch receiving channel, a looper, a

cuts through the sewing rib, the combination of' a curved hook needlearranged to enter the work: from the outside and to emerge within astitch. receiving channel, a knife arranged to operate at. that side oftheneedle remote from the completed stitches of the seam for formingslashing; cuts inthe sewing rib, a looper, a thread, finger movable toupply slack thread to the needle, andi a stationary thread fingerlocated within the: stitch receiving channel substantially at that side:of the needle opposite from th knife for guiding. the thread acted uponby the movable thread; finger clear of the slashed sewing rib.

15. In an inseam shoe sewing machine, the; combination of a curved hookneedl arranged to. enter the work from the outside and to emerge:

within a stitch receiving channel, a channel guide,

a looper, a thread finger movable to supply slack thread to the needle,a slashing. knife arranged for making transverse cuts through the sewingrib, an anvil support having a knife receiving notch and substantialsupporting surfaces at each side thereof to support portions of thesewing rib at both sides of the path of movement of the, knife againstthe cutting stroke, actuating means.

for positioning the anvil support against the sewplane of the needle.

16. In an inseam sewing machine having stitcha forming and workfeeding-devices, the combina-- tion of a slashing knife arranged formaking:

transverse cuts through the sewing rib, and an; anvil support having aknife receiving notch and: substantial supporting surfaces at each sidethereof for engagement with the sewing rib substantially above the pathfollowed by the needle in its work piercing stroke for supporting thesewing rib against the cutting stroke of the knife.

17. In an inseam sewing machine having stitch forming and work feedingdevices, the combination of a slashing knife arranged for makingtransverse cuts through the sewing rib, an anvil support having a knifereceiving notch and substantial supporting surfaces at each side thereoffor engagement with the sewin rib substantially abovethe path followedby the needle in its work piercing stroke for supporting the sewing ribv7 EDWARD QUINN.

